Polonnaruwa


From Anuradhapura, the capital shifted to Polonnaruwa in the eleventh century AD but while the splendour of the former city lasted for a thousand years or more, Polonnaruwa's hour of glory was a comparatively brief two hundred years. Its remains, therefore, are concentrated in a smaller area and are in a better state of preservation, although ruins nevertheless.

It lies on the edge of the Parakrama samudra, a vast irrigation tank that covers an area of 2,400 hectares. Constructed by one of Sri Lanka's greatest monarchs, Parakramabahu 1, it is worthily called his 'sea'. History styles this king 'the great' and apart from his other deeds, it was he who was mainly responsible for the grandeur that was Polonnaruwa. The work was continued by his nephew King Nissankamalla, an altogether lesser man not above claiming credit where none was due.

Leaving aside the question of who was responsible for what, Polonnaruwa contains some of the most sublime expressions on Buddhism to be found in Sri Lanka. Polonnaruwa fell to Tamil invaders in 1215 and the Singhalese capital moved to Dambadeniya. Twenty-five years later the invaders were driven north during the reign of Parakramabahu the learned and, from time to time, the city had a few brief moments of glory as the capital shifted back and forth from one location to another. As the thirteenth century died so did Polonnaruwa and the jungle was quick to reclaim it. As late as 1899 a trip to the site was not to be taken lightly.